Debunking the Myth of the Retinol Purge
The myth of the retinol purge is one that has been around in the beauty world for many years, with some people believing that using products containing retinoid and its derivatives can suddenly cause breakouts, and this is necessary to see their full, beautifying effects. But what exactly does this mean? And is it true? Read on to find out.
You're super psyched: you went to Sephora, Ulta, or CVS and decided to buy the fountain of youth (also known as a retinoid) because you hear that retinols are super necessary in order to have the skin of a baby fetus. However, after a week of using it every single night (or even morning and night) your face is a minefield of zits, bumps, and redness. What’s probably running through your mind is: "WTF, I didn't sign up for this! I thought I was gonna have baby looking skin and yet here I am looking like a prepubescent teenager at age 40." Fret not. We’re here to help.
Understanding the Difference Between a Skin Purge and an Adverse Reaction to Retinoids and Hydroxy Acids
Are you really experiencing a purge or is your skin just having a really bad reaction to the product? A quick reminder: skin care is not an exorcism. Retinols are not going to be the priests that get the toxins out of your body. We have kidneys and we have a liver that relieve our bodies of the toxins that build up throughout the days, months, and years. We're not dispelling toxins through our skin, we're actually peeing them out. Sorry to be crass but that is the truth. That is how our bodies self-regulate to get rid of our toxins - not through the holy grail ingredient called a retinoid.
So, what exactly then is the quote, unquote "skin purge?" A skin purge is an adjustment period. It is a temporary moment in time in which after starting either a retinoid or a hydroxy acid our skin has to adjust to the product. Sometimes it can get a little bit worse before it gets better and this brief moment in time lasts, on average, three-ish weeks — not months, and definitely not years. What determines a purge is the concentration of either the retinoid or the hydroxy acid plus the actual pH of the formulation and how that product is made.
What's Really Happening Underneath the Surface of Pimples and Comedones?
Pimples, blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory lesions are like icebergs; what you see on the surface is only one part of the story with much more happening underneath the skin. By the time a comedone comes up to the surface of the skin, it has actually been around in the lower levels of our skin for four to eight weeks.
Understanding Common Skin Reactions
Our skin cells need, on average, 28 days to go from the bottom to the top and shed off. When you start using a product like a retinoid or a hydroxy acid you're speeding up cell turnover. This is what is technically a "purge." You start to see lots of skin activity all at once because things have been speeded up.
However, some people are actually experiencing skin reactions in which their skin is super sensitive to the product they are using. If you've been using that retinol for months on end and you're still inflamed and red and flaking and irritated, you're probably having a skin reaction.
With a reaction, you tend to break out in areas where you don't classically break out. So for instance, with a purge, if I'm somebody who tends to get acne in my t-zone then when I'm using a retinoid for the first three weeks I might have a little bit more activity in this area. However, with a reaction, what I will notice over a couple of weeks is that I might be breaking out EVERYWHERE - and they're not just small little comedones but they're inflammatory as well. Like I said, a purge lasts, on average, three weeks. A reaction can go on way well over six weeks just depending on how long you're actually using the product.
How do you know if you will experience a purge or a reaction?
Unfortunately, it is a matter of trial and error. What works for me may not necessarily work for you and that is okay. You have to get to know your skin, learn your skin, and see how your skin responds. What works well for one person can be a disaster for someone else. It doesn't mean that the product is bad, it just means it's not for you.
A breakout that occurs after introducing a new product is not necessarily a sign of a purge. It could just be a product that is triggering a breakout and an irritating inflammatory reaction. The word purge has been way overused, way abused and needs to be redefined. We have to really understand that not all retinols or retinoids are actually going to cause a purge.
So, how do you then minimize a purge?
Do not start with prescription strength.
Start with an over-the counter retinol and opt for the lightest concentration.
Don't start using one every single night
Start with a low concentration and incorporate it slowly into your routine, meaning two times a week at night. Do that for several weeks until you know you got it then add a night. Do that for several weeks until you know you got it then add a night, and so on and so forth.
Buffer the retinol with a moisturizer
Put a moisturizer on first then use the retinol on top. This allows the moisturizer to decrease the efficacy of the retinol so it's not as aggressive on your skin. You'll be reaping the benefits slower, but please, for the love of God, consistency, consistency, consistency over intensity.
The Final Takeaway
In conclusion, it is a myth that the exacerbation of acne is necessary for retinol to start working. It is a complete myth. There's no evidence that worsening of acne is needed or is to be anticipated before actually seeing visible clinical signs of improvement from your retinoid.
I hope this article has shed some light on the differences between a purge and an inflammatory reaction. Unfortunately, a lot of beauty brands are leading people to believe that it is necessary to experience a purge before reaping the benefits of retinoid products. It is, in fact, simply a matter of trial and error.
Best Retinol for Beginners
L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Night Serum
Revitalift Intensives Retinol Night Serum uses 0.3% Pure Retinol, an optimal concentration for beginners looking to visibly reduce wrinkles and smooth texture. Overnight, skin feels moisturized and with continued use over time this serum reduces wrinkles, smoothes and brightens. It is fragrance free, silicone free, paraben free serum and absorbs quickly. This is a great option to ease you into the retinol game. Try using every other night and increasing the frequency once your skin starts tolerating it well.
