Decoding the Myths of Retinol
I've noticed a surprising amount of misinformation about retinols, so today, we're going to tackle six common myths head-on, empowering you to make informed decisions about integrating these products into your skincare routine.
Does Retinol Thin the Skin?
First up, a myth perpetuated even by professionals, which seriously needs to be dispelled: Retinols thin out your skin. This is simply not true. Let's dig a bit deeper to understand why people fall for this misconception. The assumption is that if your skin is peeling or flaking due to retinols, it's becoming thinner. However, this overlooks the fact that our bodies constantly produce new skin cells. Indeed, your skin rejuvenates itself approximately every 28 days through a differentiation cycle, in which new cells rise from the lower layer of the epidermis and older cells naturally shed. As we age, this process slows down, but ingredients like retinols can give it a boost.
During the initial weeks of using a retinoid, it's common for your skin to feel flaky, dry, or peely, but this doesn't mean your skin is thinning. If your skin remains red, inflamed, or irritated after several weeks of retinol use, you might need to reconsider this product, or perhaps you've used too strong a formula. Retinols don't thin the skin; they help it renew more efficiently. Here's where we need to put the myth to rest: retinols are beneficial to a skin cell called fibroblast that resides in the dermis layer and is responsible for producing collagen. Retinols have been shown to stimulate collagen production over time by positively influencing these fibroblasts. Additionally, retinols inhibit collagenase, an enzyme that breaks down collagen, another lesser-known advantage of this ingredient. Collagenase is an enzyme that breaks down collagen in our bodies. By limiting its activity we can protect the valuable collagen in our skin. It's easy to get lost in the information overload - but I want to set the record straight.
Does Retinol Exfoliate?
Retinol doesn't exfoliate your skin - that's a myth. They don't peel away your skin layers. They aren't the same as exfoliating acids. So, what does this all mean? Exfoliating acids break down the bonds between your skin cells, allowing them to fall off. This happens on the top layer of your skin. On the other hand, retinoids speed up the cell growth and their effective differentiation without causing them to fall off. The end results may seem similar, but the process is entirely different. It's incorrect to equate retinoids with exfoliating acids. For an in-depth explanation about exfoliating acids, you can check out my previous article where I discuss glycolic acid versus salicylic acid.
Can I Use Retinol and Exfoliating Acids Together?
This brings us to another myth - using retinol and exfoliating acid together will harm your skin. This isn't entirely true. If you're new to skincare and have sensitive skin, yes, it might cause irritation. However, if you're a skincare veteran and understand your skin's reactions, you can use both on the same night to potentially achieve better results, provided your skin doesn't get inflamed.The key here is balance. The removal of dead skin cells on the surface allows retinoids to work more effectively. If you're unsure, just alternate between the two. I recommend exfoliating at night three times a week, and using retinol on the remaining nights. It's the best approach given that it's not ideal to exfoliate every night.
The Truth About Combining Vitamin C and Retinol
To debunk a common myth, the combination of vitamin C and retinol can have extraordinarily beneficial effects on your skin. This myth originated due to concerns about skin irritation. It's important to note that we're talking about the active form of vitamin C – L ascorbic acid, which is usually associated with irritation, especially when combined with other irritating ingredients like exfoliating acids or retinol. Another misconception involves the pH levels of vitamin C and retinol. While vitamin C is typically formulated at a lower pH, and retinol at a higher one, the subsequent application of both doesn't drastically alter the skin's equilibrium in terms of pH. It's crucial to remember that vitamin C is not uniformly the same. There are different forms, and the only active one is L ascorbic. Ester forms are more stable and less affected by pH. If someone advises against combining vitamin C with retinol, consider the type of vitamin C being used, the sensitivity of the skin in question, the application period, and the number of steps in the skincare routine.
Understanding Retinol Strengths
Lastly, a prevalent myth suggests that one must consistently increase the strength of over-the-counter retinol or retinoids. However, regular use of a mid-percentage retinol over an extended period will yield better results than intermittent use of a stronger type. It's key to understand the nature and concentration of the product you are using. Many people say that they can't endure any form of retinoid, yet most of them haven't even tried the less aggressive forms, such as a retinol ester, or the lowest concentration.
When discussing over-the-counter retinols, you'll typically encounter concentrations ranging from 0.25% to 1.0%. However, prescription tretinoin starts at a much lower potency - 0.01% to 0.025% - and peaks at 0.1%. It's important to note here that a 0.1% tretinoin is significantly more potent than a 1.0% over-the-counter retinol. The highest potency you'll find in over-the-counter retinols is 1.0%. So, while the number alone might not mean much, the percentage in relation to the retinoid type is crucial. If any part of this explanation is unclear, feel free to ask questions. We might delve deeper into this topic of retinoids, retinols, percentages, and strengths if you're interested.
The Reality of Retinols and Dry Eye Disease
Another common misconception is about the safety of using retinols around your eyes. Recent publications in the Journal of Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology and the Journal of Ophthalmology suggest that retinol usage around the eyes could increase the risk of dry eye disease. However, there are several problems with these findings. Firstly, dry eye disease has multiple causes. It's primarily due to the natural shrinkage of our meibomian glands, which release oily substances to protect our eyes and keep them lubricated. But other factors also contribute, such as wearing contact lenses and long-term use of antihistamines or allergy medications.
Moreover, these studies are somewhat flawed. While it's known that oral isotretinoin, a form of tretinoin, can cause dry eyes, the application method matters when using topical tretinoin. I advise against applying tretinoin directly to your eyelids, where the meibomian glands are located. This can lead to irritation, flaking, and general discomfort. Instead, apply tretinoin only on the bony part of your eye, not too close to the lower eyelid. Always buffer it with Vaseline first and use a minimal amount if you're applying retinoids around your eyes.
The Safe Use of Retinols Around Eyes and Other Delicate Areas
Tretinoin application requires a cautious approach, especially around delicate areas like the eyes. It's effectiveness can be toned down by buffering, which is useful if you're dealing with sensitive areas. However, if you're questioning the need for a prescription, remember, you can always opt for over-the-counter options with lower percentages. So, my advice is always to apply Vaseline first for safety, or choose eye creams formulated with retinol, specially designed to deliver the active ingredients gently. Eye creams with actives are beneficial, while those without don't offer much. My personal experience backs this up - I've struggled with under-eye lines and had negative experiences with some products, like the La Prairie eye cream. However, using retinols around my eyes, combined with microneedling and PRP, has yielded incredible results. I'm now approaching 40 and my eye area shows far fewer fine lines than in the past.
Beware of the misinformation that floats around about retinols. For instance, they should not be used around the mouth or neck area, as most people, including myself, cannot tolerate them there and it tends to cause shedding. The neck and chest areas are particularly sensitive, so using a moisturizer before a less concentrated retinol solution is essential.
The Role of Retinols in Pregnancy and Breastfeeding
Pregnancy is a no-go for retinol due to potential risks. The oral form, isotretinoin, is considered dangerous for pregnant women, leading to severe complications. While topical applications are different, there's still uncertainty about absorption levels during pregnancy, and it's best not to take unnecessary risks. Retinol usage isn't a problem while breastfeeding, however, and be aware that it increases sun sensitivity - so always follow up with sunscreen. Regardless of where you live or the season, sun protection is crucial. Retinol can be used in the summer; the key lies in smart sun protection.
Please feel free to leave comments, concerns, or questions below, and we'll address them in our next article.
About the Author: Caolan
With over a decade of international experience, Caolan's passion lies in simplifying the complex. His innovative thinking and audience-first approach have made significant impacts across the creative industries. Now, as the founder of But More Importantly, he applies these talents to the world of cosmetics, aiming to unmask marketing hype and provide readers with the truth about beauty products. His mission: to help you make informed choices and discover what truly enhances your beauty routine.
