A Shade Smarter
How the newest sunscreens are rethinking what it means to be sun-safe, from Bondi Beach to Brooklyn rooftops
In the cool hush of a late morning pharmacy in Madrid’s Justicia district, a compact bottle stands on the shelf, its minimal packaging almost apologetic. The label simply reads “SPF 45 Serum,” and to the untrained eye it could be mistaken for a vial of lightweight facial oil or perhaps a new-wave tincture. But make no mistake, it represents a growing movement, a shift in what sun protection looks, feels and smells like. The modern sunscreen is no longer just a duty, slathered on in haste before a swim. It is evolving, becoming elegant. Pleasurable. Intelligent. And yes, sometimes even beautiful.
Gone are the days of chalky pastes and the faint whiff of chemicals. In their place comes a new generation of formulas crafted not only to protect, but to soothe, flatter, and even delight. The season’s latest crop of SPF launches showcases this sensibility with aplomb, drawing from the worlds of dermatology, design, and daily skincare ritual. They are built for sensitive types, for runners, for minimalists, for glow-seekers. And above all, for real life.
For those whose skin seems to rebel at the slightest provocation, First Aid Beauty’s Hydrating Sunscreen Milk offers a quietly effective refuge. At $36, it combines a chemical SPF 45 with colloidal oatmeal, an ingredient long used in dermatological circles to calm and comfort. Its creamy yet breathable texture suggests thoughtfulness, not indulgence. Ideal for those still searching for a sunscreen that doesn’t feel like compromise.
Across the equator, Australia’s sun-smart culture has long fostered a reputation for best-in-class protection. Ultraviolet, an established player on Sydney’s sunscreen stage, has brought its Supreme Screen SPF 50 stateside. While the US version differs slightly due to regulatory requirements—it uses domestic filters—it still holds its own. Light in feel, rich in hydration, and bolstered by pentavitin and squalane, it’s well suited for dry skin types and arid climates. Think high desert air, long-haul flights, or simply the relentlessness of modern central heating.
Meanwhile, in the more humid corners of the world skin often calls for restraint, not richness. Neutrogena’s Ultra Sheer Mineral Face Liquid offers SPF 70 without the weight. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide do the heavy lifting, while the finish is remarkably transparent, even on deeper skin tones. Though testing remains key for darker complexions, its quick-drying texture and featherlight feel suggest promise for a wide range of users.
For those who recoil at the very idea of sunscreen (the texture, the scent, the memory of teenage breakouts) The Ordinary’s UV Filters SPF 45 Serum makes a compelling case. At just $19, this fragrance-free fluid mimics a skincare serum in feel and weight, with no cloying residue or white cast. It is the sunscreen for people who loathe sunscreen, and perhaps that is its greatest strength.
Still, sun protection need not be limited to lotions. For urban commuters and Riviera regulars alike, UV visors have become a discreet form of wearable armour. The most effective ones block both UVA and UVB rays, offering protection without requiring a drop of product. They’ve been seen in Tokyo cafes and along the boardwalks of Biarritz, their futuristic silhouette now softened by better materials and more thoughtful design. When choosing one, steer clear of the mass-produced versions that flood online marketplaces. Not all visors are created equal, and protection is only meaningful when it’s verified.
Skin sensitivity doesn’t always stem from ingredients. For many, it’s a case of chronic redness, exacerbated by weather, wine, or the daily grind. Here, Elta MD’s Green Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 50 takes a smarter approach. With a mineral base and subtle green undertone, it gently neutralises the appearance of redness without veering into cosmetic territory. Backed by centella asiatica and ceramides, it treats while it conceals, offering quiet dignity to complexions in constant negotiation with the world.
At the other end of the spectrum, for those who sweat by choice (runners, tennis players, yoga-in-the-park devotees) there’s Shiseido’s Ultimate Sun Protector Lotion SPF 60. It features the brand’s WetForce technology, which uses the positive ions in sweat to strengthen the protective barrier when moisture is introduced. The formula itself is mineral-based, but the science behind it feels almost poetic. A sunscreen that works harder when you do.
For less athletic, more luminous pursuits, Sarah Creal’s Brilliant Repair delivers a subtle sheen with its zinc-based SPF 50. It is less about camouflage and more about enhancement, adding a gentle glow to bare skin. Available in two shades—Neutral Glow and Golden Bronze—it’s a minimalist’s dream. Perfect for market strolls in Lisbon or long lunches under striped umbrellas.
For those seeking more tonal nuance, Beauty of Joseon’s Daily Tinted Fluid is worth a look. It offers 12 shades, all featherlight, with a natural finish that plays nicely under makeup or alone. It’s not without quirks (it can pill if layered improperly) but its $20 price point and thoughtful formulation suggest it is worth finessing into your routine. Pair it with the right moisturiser and it rewards the effort.
Longtime aficionados may still reach for old favourites, such as Laura Mercier’s Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 25. Though its sun protection is modest, its radiance remains unmatched. This one belongs in winter wardrobes or low UV days, when complexion rather than coverage is the priority.
For those chasing sun-kissed skin without the sun’s damaging effects, self-tanning has finally shed its artificial stigma. Allies of Skin has introduced a clever hybrid, a daily SPF 50 infused with DHA, the active tanning agent in most self-tanners. The result is a subtle build over time. There’s no olfactory reminder of your high school experiments, no tell-tale streaks. Still, restraint is key. Overuse can tip the balance toward a more orange hue, so perhaps once or twice a week is advised. Between uses, return to your preferred daily SPF.
Even lips, often forgotten, deserve their moment in the sun. Or rather, out of it. Iris & Romeo’s SPF 30 Moisture Lip Balm combines zinc-based protection with the cushiony comfort of a balm-oil. It glides on with ease, sits elegantly beside a glass of rosé, and pairs well with the evening ritual of a gentle exfoliating peel.
New arrivals continue to trickle in. Tower 28’s upcoming SOS FaceGuard and Merit’s forthcoming shade-expanding mineral SPF both hint at what is to come. More inclusivity. More intelligence. More joy.
As with most things, finding the right sunscreen is a process. There is no universal answer, no product that ticks every box for every face. Instead, there is a quiet pleasure in the search itself. A morning moment at the mirror, a beach bag neatly packed, a rooftop aperitif with the sun on your skin and not a care in the world. To live well is to protect with intention. And with today’s offerings, there is no reason not to. After all, elegance and efficacy are no longer mutually exclusive.
