Physical vs Chemical Exfoliation: What You Need to Know
We all know it: A scrub is a guy that can't get no love from me (since I turned 25, at least). But does a scrub have a place in my skincare routine? Good question. Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin but it can be done by both physical exfoliants (such as scrubs and brushes) and chemical exfoliants (like acids and enzymes). In this article, we will discuss both forms of exfoliation and why I prefer chemical exfoliants over physical ones any day.
What is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is a fundamental part of a comprehensive skincare routine. It involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, enhancing the appearance and health of your skin. This deliberate cell turnover can improve skin texture, unclog pores, and allow for better absorption of skincare products.
Physical Exfoliants
Physical exfoliants are the most common type of exfoliant, and the ones you’re probably most familiar with. They generally involve some form of scrubbing or buffing of the skin with a rough material such as grains, particles, or brushes. Some examples are scrubs containing sugar, salt, ground nut shells, coffee grounds and microbeads. While physical exfoliants can be useful for removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, they can also be too abrasive on delicate facial skin. As well, physical exfoliation can cause issues with your skin barrier, leaving it vulnerable to bacteria which may lead to infections or breakouts.
tl;dr save physical scrubs for your body and don’t use them more than three times per week
Nécessaire The Body Exfoliator
The Body Exfoliator from Nécessaire is a weekly physical exfoliation treatment for the skin. This effective exfoliating treatment breaks down charcoal on contact for a skin detox, while Volcanic Pumice helps to resurface skin. Use 1-2 times a week or as desired. Apply all over your body, massage until it foams, then rinse well.
A deeply exfoliating scrub with powerful ingredients like pink salt, volcanic sand and witch hazel. Probiotic extracts, raspberry leaf and pomegranate reveal smoother, softer and more balanced skin. This scrub might smell fun (think: fresh raspberries & pomegranate), but it’s not playing around. A word to the wise: it might talk about blackheads and facial use on their website, but it can feel akin to an industrial level sander. As mentioned above, let’s keep scrubs for the stronger skin from circa the collarbone down.
Chemical Exfoliants
Chemical exfoliants work by loosening and breaking down dead skin cells. This method can be gentler than physical exfoliation because it does not require rubbing or scrubbing which can cause damage to delicate facial skin. The most common types of chemical exfoliants are AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids). AHAs are primarily water-soluble and include popular ingredients like glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid and citric acid. They help to increase cell turnover for brighter, smoother skin. BHAs are oil-soluble so they can penetrate deeper into pores than AHAs to unclog them and reduce breakouts. The most common type of BHA is salicylic acid. Most chemical exfoliants can be used around twice a week for best results.
tl;dr acids perfect for the face (or body, if you have the dollar for actives in your body care) but don’t get carried away! Stick to around twice a week to keep your skin barrier healthy.
Dr. Jart+ Pore Remedy PHA Exfoliating Serum
A gentle, water-like serum with 7% PHA clinically proven to help smooth skin and decongest without irritation. After one week, it removes dead skin cells, decreases blackheads and controls excess oil. It dramatically improves the appearance of skin tone and texture. And it does it all without dryness or peeling. PHA is a chemical exfoliator with a large molecular size that doesn’t penetrate as deeply into skin which makes this acid a better option for sensitive skin than AHAs and BHAs. This serum also contains panthenol to help moisturize and macadamia seed oil to help control sebum without clogging pores.
This multi-tasking, cleansing exfoliant is an ideal addition to your cleansing regimen 2-3 times a week. Chemical exfoliation from a combination of alpha and beta hydrozy acids helps clear dull, dry skin from the surface for a fresher appearance and to improve penetration of treatment ingredients that follow. (Another) word to the wise: actives in cleansers are a bit misunderstood, or underutilized. An active ingredient like an AHA or BHA needs time in contact with your skin in order for it to work its magic so if you’re only washing your face for 30 seconds to a minute, you’re literally and figuratively washing its effects (and your money) down the drain. Here’s how to make it work for you: before you rinse it off, simply leave it on your skin for about three minutes. Our recommendation would be to lather up, then hit play on I AM by IVE (which lasts a perfect three minutes and four seconds) and dance around your bathroom while those acids dance around on your skin. Once the song is over, time to rinse.
Comparing Physical and Chemical Exfoliation
While both physical and chemical exfoliation aim to remove dead skin cells and reveal healthier skin, they differ in their approach and effectiveness. Physical exfoliation involves manually scrubbing the skin with abrasive substances or tools, and is often suggested for areas with thicker skin, such as the body. On the other hand, chemical exfoliants act on a cellular level, using acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds between skin cells and allow them to shed naturally. Chemical exfoliation is typically more suited for delicate facial skin as it offers a gentler and more even exfoliation.
Exfoliating is an important step in any skincare routine because it helps remove dead skin cells from the surface of your face which can lead to clogged pores, dull complexion, and other issues such as acne or premature aging. But if you’re still reaching for the St. Ive’s for your perfect little face after reading this, then you’re a fool and we can’t help you 🤷
So what should you choose? If you’re looking for a gentle, yet effective exfoliation then chemical exfoliants are the way to go. Physical exfoliation should be reserved for the body where the skin is thicker. But regardless of which method you decide to use, make sure to always follow up with a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated and healthy.
Incorporating Exfoliation into a Routine
Integrating exfoliation into your skincare routine requires a balance. After cleansing, apply your chosen exfoliant, taking care to follow the instructions and not over-exfoliate. Depending on the intensity, this may be done 1-3 times a week. After exfoliating, it's crucial to apply a hydrating serum or moisturizer. Exfoliating masks can also be used once a week for a deeper cleanse. Maintenance and consistency are key to reaping the benefits of exfoliation.
