The Top 10 Ingredients to Fight Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is a common issue that many people deal with, and it can be caused by several factors including sun exposure, hormonal imbalances, acne scarring, and aging. While it can make skin look uneven and older than its years, there are fortunately a range of products available to help reduce its effects. To get the best results, you should keep an eye out for certain key ingredients - read on to learn about the But More Importantly top 10 ingredients to target hyperpigmentation!
What Causes Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin produces more melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. This can cause spots or areas of the skin to darken. The primary causes include sun exposure, inflammation, or other skin injuries, including those related to acne vulgaris. Other factors like hormonal changes, age, and certain medications can also trigger hyperpigmentation.
1. Add in Sunscreen:
Protecting your skin from environmental damage with proper sunscreen is essential in any pigmentation control routine. It prevents further dark spots from forming and is 100% necessary to ensure the efficacy of the additional ingredients below. Use daily, whether you’re indoors or outdoors, or else you’re wasting your time and money on other products.
Supergoop! Glowscreen
Pioneers of the sunscreen sphere, Supergoop! has amassed legions of fans for their Glowscreen SPF 30 for its dewy, glowy abilities to protect and prime complexions under the duress of UVA and UVB rays. Giving you peace of mind when the sunshine hits, you’ll find this formula also plays well under make up to give a supple, bouncy and radiant finish that won't be mistaken for shine or sweat.
Black Girl Sunscreen was designed to start the conversation around sun protection for people of color. When it comes to melanoma, Black people have a lower than average survival rate due to late diagnosis, as often they feel they are less at risk. Decreasing the risk of melanoma helps to decrease the number of people that die from it, so wearing sunscreen is essential, no matter the color of your skin. BGS has you looking and feeling good by leaving no white cast while incorporating moisturizing ingredients that nourish your skin.
2. Hydroquinone:
One of the most effective ingredients in reducing hyperpigmentation is hydroquinone – an ingredient found in many skin care products used to lighten dark spots. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin which contributes to hyperpigmentation. It’s important to use a product with 2% concentration or less and always follow up with sunscreen after applying it. Hydroquinone products can be difficult to get your hands on outside of a dermatologist’s office, but you can occasionally still find Ambi Skincare and PCA Skin products with hydroquinone.
3. Retinol:
Retinol is another powerful ingredient that can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots. It works by increasing cell turnover and fading existing pigmentation, while also preventing new spots from forming. Retinol is a super effective ingredient that can cause irritation to sensitive skin when you start using it so it’s important to start off slow and build up usage over time. I recommend Roc and Differin for all levels of retinol users.
ROC Retinol Correxion Night Cream
A night cream for a smoother, more radiant appearance. Roc’s proprietary manufacturing processes stabilize pure retinol and the included antioxidants and chelating agents prevent retinol degradation. Clinical studies show virtually no irritation with continued use of RoC retinol and the product has been shown to accelerate the removal of old, dull surface skin cells to reveal vibrant and healthier-looking skin.
This gel from Differin clears deep inside your pores to prevent new acne from forming, which ultimately restores the skin's texture and tone. Differin works differently than other acne treatments by normalizing skin cell turnover and was created for superior tolerability compared to other retinoid products. The water based formula is oil free, alcohol free, fragrance free, and non comedogenic, helping reduce the risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation. In a clinical study, Differin gel also provided an 87 percent reduction in acne breakouts after 12 weeks.
4. Tranexamic Acid:
This ingredient can be a game changer in treating hyperpigmentation as it helps to lighten dark spots and prevents new ones from forming. Tranexamic acid inhibits melanin production while also reducing inflammation, making skin look brighter and more even. Try out Skin Medica and Skin Ceuticals for great results.
SkinMedica Lytera 2.0 Pigment Correcting Serum
Lytera 2.0 is an advanced Pigment Correcting Serum, formulated to address the appearance of stubborn skin discoloration. Made to address even the deepest hyperpigmentation, regardless of skin type or genetic makeup, improvements can be seen in as early as 2 weeks with noticeable results after 12 weeks.
Discoloration Defense is a layerable, daily-use dark spot corrector clinically proven to reduce the appearance of key types of skin discoloration in all skin tones, including hard-to-treat forms such as stubborn brown patches and post-acne marks. Formulated with 3% tranexamic acid, 1% kojic acid, 5% niacinamide, and 5% HEPES, this latest-generation formula improves the appearance of skin discoloration, brightens skin, and evens skin tone after 2 weeks of consistent usage.
5. Vitamin C for Dark Spots:
Why Vitamin C is Great for Dark Spots
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals in the skin. Free radicals trigger skin damage, leading to dark spots and hyperpigmentation. By neutralizing these harmful elements, Vitamin C helps prevent the formation of dark spots. It also inhibits melanin production, which lightens hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone.
L-ascorbic acid for Hyperpigmentation
L-ascorbic acid is the purest form of Vitamin C and is extremely effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It boosts collagen production and reverses cell damage, which helps keep the skin healthy and glowing. However, it's quite unstable and can quickly degrade if not properly formulated and stored. When choosing skincare products with L-ascorbic acid, look for dark, air-tight bottles, and store in a cool, dark place.
L’Oréal Revitalift 10% Pure Vitamin C Concentrate
This fragrance-free anti-aging serum features an optimal concentration of Vitamin C to visibly boost skin’s youthful radiance, even skin tone, and reduce wrinkles. It comes packaged in an innovative air-tight metal tube for increased stability and efficacy, shielding the product from UV and oxygen exposure.
This serum, formulated with Vitamin B3 and Vitamin C, penetrates your skin's surface to brighten a dull and uneven complexion. After you cleanse, use the dropper to apply several drops of serum. Follow with moisturizer to seal in your treatment. You'll see noticeably more even skin tone after two weeks of use.
6. Licorice Root:
Licorice root is perfect for targeting the causes of hyperpigmentation as it helps to lighten dark spots, reduce inflammation and inhibit melanin production. I recommend Paula's Choice and The Ordinary - they offer great formulas combining this powerhouse ingredient!
Paula’s Choice CALM Repairing Serum
This antioxidant-rich serum with licorice root immediately soothes sensitive skin and visibly calms redness with an effective blend of hydrating and anti-aging ingredients. It provides immediate relief for sensitive skin while targeting signs of aging with gentle levels of effective anti-aging ingredients. Repairing antioxidants work to keep skin healthier, youthful-looking and resilient over time. Nourishing for all skin types and gentle enough even for skin prone to rosacea.
7. Niacinamide:
Niacinamide is a potent ingredient that helps to reduce inflammation while also evening out skin tone. It works by inhibiting the transfer of melanin, resulting in brighter and more even skin. Try Paula’s Choice, The Ordinary and Dermadoctor for great results.
Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster
This concentrated 10% niacinamide (B3) booster visibly reduces post breakout marks, fights multiple signs of ageing and improves the skin’s texture. Its multi-tasking, light-weight formula also contains calming and hydrating ingredients to replenish skin and restore radiance.
8. Alpha Arbutin & Kojic Acid:
This combination of ingredients can help to lighten dark spots and is often preferred by those who like to opt for more “natural” skincare. Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone - one of the most-effective skin-lightening ingredients. However, hydroquinone comes with many potential side effects - which is why it's banned in the EU and Japan. Arbutin is a much safer alternative and is known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by slowly releasing hydroquinone over time, inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme responsible for the production of melanin in the skin. Kojic acid is a chemical derived from mushrooms, but it can also be created during the sake brewing process from fermented rice. Because of its ability to really penetrate the layers of your skin and stop the production of melanin, kojic acid is usually sought out as a spot-fading treatment, and is often considered a less-aggressive answer to hydroquinone.
The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% Serum
Combat discoloration and breakout-prone skin with The Ordinary's Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Concentrated Serum. This lightweight, fast-absorbing serum features the powers of purified Alpha Arbutin and Hyaluronic Acid. It minimizes the appearance of brown spots and skin imperfections while preventing melanin formation to weaken the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
A must-have for those battling sun spots, age spots, and dark patches, this formula has been clinically shown to reduce signs of sun spots in just a matter of weeks. Formulated with Kojic acid, L-ascorbic acid and lactic acid, this serum targets discolouration in three ways: by removing over-pigmented surface cells, clearing and illuminating skin tone, and fighting against environmental aggressors.
9. Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant that helps to brighten and even out skin tone by removing the top layer of dead cells on the skin. It can also help to reduce dark spots caused by acne, sun exposure and more. I recommend using products from Fitish or Glytone for this ingredient - they offer great formulas with concentrations up to 10% glycolic acid.
Fitish Boundary Issues
Boundary Issues smoothes rough bumps and uneven skin texture for a radiant finish. This CBD and glycolic acid-based body wash has a unique blend of aloe and green tea that deeply cleanses your skin while exfoliating dead surface skin cells to reveal renewed skin. Orange peel and eucalyptus oils invigorate the skin while infusing it with moisture. This hard-working formula will give you soft, supple and hydrated skin (remember to leave it on your skin for at least three minutes before you wash it off). Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product.
10. Azelaic Acid:
This ingredient works both as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory which helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. It can also help to treat acne and prevent future breakouts. At But More Importantly, our favorites are from Paula’s Choice, The Ordinary and Krave Beauty.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azealic Booster
The Azelaic Acid Booster from Paula’s Choice is a real multi-tasker and the powerful combination of azelaic acid, salicylic acid and plant extracts has multiple benefits for the skin. This booster visibly fades brown spots caused by sun damage, works to reduce breakouts and diminish red marks from past blemishes. Plant derived brightening and soothing ingredients reveal a more radiant, even complexion. A perfect alternative for those sensitive to benzoyl peroxide.
Customizing a Skin Lightening Routine
Cleanser to Prep Skin
Prepping your skin is the first step to any skincare routine. A good cleanser removes dirt, oil, and makeup, providing a clean slate for the skin lightening products.
Toners for Extra Treatment
Some toners are infused with skin lightening ingredients like glycolic acid or Vitamin C, adding an extra layer of treatment for dark spots.
Oils, Serums, and Creams
Oils, serums, and creams infuse the skin with active ingredients that lighten dark spots and enhance skin health. For dark spots, look for ingredients like Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and retinols in your serums and creams.
Sun Protection is Key
Sun exposure can increase melanin production, leading to dark spots. A broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays is a must in any skin lightening routine. Opt for at least SPF 30 and remember to reapply every 2 hours when in direct sunlight.
Hyperpigmentation can be a really daunting problem to tackle but thankfully there are many great ingredients out there that can help reduce its appearance over time. The most important thing when treating any type of skin condition is consistency - so don't give up! As you can see, there are a *bunch* of different choices of ingredients that could be effective for you. When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation, it is one of the few skin concerns where a “more is more” approach is often necessary, so feel free to experiment with and layer a number of different ingredients from this list to truly even out your skin tone. Stick with your chosen product routine until you reach your desired results or speak to your dermatologist if you’re not seeing results after using the above ingredients after a few months. Good luck!
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