The Journey with Tretinoin: A Personal Experience
IN THIS ARTICLE
Today, we'll delve into the topic of integrating potent retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene into your skincare routine. Tretinoin, hailed as a beacon in skincare backed by robust scientific evidence, is known to be challenging to introduce, often leading to peeling and irritation. My personal experience includes developing broken capillaries when I first experimented with retinol. The initial adjustment period, aptly termed 'retinization', can be a daunting prospect. Therefore, I've compiled a list of tips to help you incorporate it seamlessly into your routine, minimizing side effects and maximizing benefits. If you enjoy this content, don't forget to like the article, subscribe to the newsletter, and listen to the podcast to stay updated.
The Power of Gradual Introduction
Retinoids, derivatives of Vitamin A, include popular skincare ingredients like tretinoin, retinol, differin (adapalene), and tazarotene. They're also present in Accutane or isotretinoin, an oral medication. Celebrated for their formidable anti-aging, anti-acne, and anti-pigment effects, retinoids are supported by an abundance of scientific studies. However, their major drawback is skin irritation, resulting in dryness, peeling, stinging, and redness, predominant during the initial weeks. While some escape this irritation entirely, for others, it can persist up to six weeks. Among retinoids, tretinoin is infamous for irritation, but its benefits are also the best substantiated. Tazarotene is more irksome, while adapalene, retinol, and retinaldehyde are gentler.
When I embarked on using tretinoin, I was apprehensive, given my past experience with 1 percent retinol. My usually resilient skin had a major setback. I underestimated how much my skin could tolerate, and the delayed irritation made it trickier to adjust the dosage. Additionally, I was battling a cold, resulting in frequent nose blowing that, coupled with the irritation, led to broken capillaries.
An added complication with retinoids is purging— a phase when your skin initially worsens before improving, as underlying pimples are rapidly brought to the surface. I have a separate article detailing how to distinguish between purging and breaking out. To mitigate purging, introduce tretinoin gradually, allowing your skin to adapt. Limiting skin purging involves a two-pronged approach: slow product introduction and diligent skincare. Retinoid products offer a wide range of percentages, and it's advisable to begin with the gentlest formula. For instance, go for lower concentrations and time release retinoids, as these are gentler on your skin. Cream formulas are particularly effective because they deliver the medication to your skin more efficiently.
Leveraging Research for Successful Skincare
When introducing retinoids to your skincare regimen, the key is to do it slowly. Gradually increase the concentration as your skin adjusts, or try diluting the retinoid with oil or cream. Another approach is to apply the product every second or third day, allowing your skin time to adapt. You could also consider short contact therapy, which consists of applying the product like a mask and then rinsing it off. Studies have shown that this method can yield great results. One specific research case on acne found that a daily 0.05 percent tretinoin cream left on for half an hour yielded similar results to leaving it on longer, and only about 20% of participants experienced irritation, even without using a moisturizer.
The Art of Applying Retinoids: A Step-by-Step Guide
During this period, it's crucial to use mild skincare products, like gentle cleansers and moisturizers, and to avoid acid exfoliants. Aim to apply the retinoid on dry skin, as damp skin can more easily absorb ingredients (and therefore get more easily irritated). After cleansing, wait around 30 minutes before applying the product. Ensure an even application—this can be achieved by dotting the product around your face and rubbing it in, or diluting it with a cream or moisturiser.
My Personal Tretinoin Routine: A Reference Point
My personal routine could serve as a reference point for you, or you could adjust it to suit your needs. I started with a 0.05 percent retinoic acid—RetinA being the brand name, but I opted for a generic version. For the first week, I employed short contact therapy, applying the product for half an hour in the evening every three days. I made sure to use gentle skincare products and found that Dr. Jart Cicapair Cream worked best for me. During the first week, I experienced minimal dryness and no irritation or peeling. Going into the second week, I left the product on my skin longer, but not before applying a thick layer of cream underneath. The peeling started then, with a delay of about a day and a half, and it cleared up after approximately a day. If you're experiencing peeling and still want to use makeup, I'd recommend using a concealer rather than foundation to make the flakes less noticeable.
Encouraged by the results, I decided to apply tretinoin directly to my skin every third day for the next fortnight. The amount I used was around a quarter of a pea size, applied to dry skin, deliberately avoiding areas prone to irritation like around my nose and chin. After applying tretinoin, I used moisturizer and the preceding night, I had used a mild alpha hydroxy acid product. Initially, I experienced some irritation, but by the end of these two weeks, I had no signs of irritation or peeling. I now follow a three-day rotation schedule. On the first day, I apply a quarter to half a pea-sized amount of tretinoin. The other days are reserved for alpha hydroxy acid and vitamin C, while niacinamide is used every night.
The Importance of Individual Tailoring in Skincare
I've observed that this routine works best for me, especially in terms of tretinoin's effects on my skin texture, pore size, and overall skin clarity and glow. Despite these benefits, I still rely on alpha hydroxy acid to keep my pores unclogged and vitamin C to reduce hyperpigmentation more rapidly. This routine enables me to reap the benefits of these ingredients without experiencing much irritation or flaking.
Common Mistakes to Avoid: Lessons Learned from My Tretinoin Journey
While embarking on this journey, I made several mistakes that I hope you can avoid. Firstly, I was guilty of using tretinoin too excessively and frequently, which is easy to do. My second mistake was using retinoids followed immediately by other irritating substances like alpha hydroxy acids. I mistakenly used a 10% alpha hydroxy acid during the second week, which left me with an incredibly tight, stinging sensation when applying essential products like sunscreen or foundation the next day. Initially, I found 5% alpha hydroxy acid was tolerable, but it's advisable to tread gently at the beginning. Another error I made was applying a humectant toner before the retinoid initially, which I later realized made my skin more permeable and consequently more prone to stinging.
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About the Author: Caolan
With over a decade of international experience, Caolan's passion lies in simplifying the complex. His innovative thinking and audience-first approach have made significant impacts across the creative industries. Now, as the founder of But More Importantly, he applies these talents to the world of cosmetics, aiming to unmask marketing hype and provide readers with the truth about beauty products. His mission: to help you make informed choices and discover what truly enhances your beauty routine.
