Sunscreen Myths Unmasked: Get the Facts Right

A selection of sunscreen products set against a background of summery products

IN THIS ARTICLE

Hey everyone, we're back again! Today's discussion is all about debunking the myths surrounding sunscreen. It's surprising, but the topic of sunscreen is one of the most complex ones to tackle.

Sunscreen is a subject with a lot of subtleties and nuances. Today we're going to address some of the commonly held misconceptions that we often encounter in our comments or on social media, and perhaps even some myths we once believed ourselves. So let's look at the most common sunscreen stories and determine if they're myths or facts. Let's dive in!

Myth number one - the SPF in your moisturizer or foundation provides sufficient sun protection.

Is that really a myth? At face value, it seems to make sense. We always aim for a minimum SPF of 30. If your makeup or foundation has an SPF of 30 or more, wouldn't it work just like sunscreen? The issue lies in how much you're applying. If you're using just a dime-sized or a quarter-sized amount of moisturizer for your entire face, neck, and ears, then it might not provide enough sun protection.

To understand how companies determine their Sun Protection Factor (SPF), we must delve into their specific lab conditions. They work towards determining the minimal erythema dose (MED), and this process has been discussed in numerous studies. The effectiveness of sunscreen largely depends on the quantity applied but the required amount of sunscreen isn't the same for everyone, considering factors like face size, finger size, and the size of your neck and ears. A general guideline, however, suggests applying a quarter teaspoon of sunscreen to your face, neck, and ears daily, with reapplication necessary throughout the day.

The takeaway? To get the SPF protection you want from your makeup or moisturizer, you need to apply the same quantity as you would of sunscreen, which is usually a quarter teaspoon, or two finger lengths. Measure it out to get a feel for the right amount. Applying this quantity ensures you get the SPF protection mentioned on the product. A crucial point, though, is that most people do not apply enough sunscreen, typically only about half the required amount, so be mindful about this.

Myth number two - darker skin tones do not require sunscreen.

This myth has been ingrained in many since childhood, leading them to believe that those with darker skin tones do not need sunscreen because they do not sunburn. But even if you have darker skin that rarely burns, the cumulative UV damage over the years can still result in a skin cancer diagnosis. The truth is, sun damage can occur without a sunburn, and this is a key point everyone should be aware of.

Regardless of your skin tone or your propensity to sunburn, it's important to remember that sun damage can occur. The risk of skin cancer is hard to define as it varies across individuals and it is true that darker skin tones have more protection from the sun, while lighter skin tones have less. But, this doesn't negate the need for sunscreen protection across all skin tones.

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Current data prevents us from conclusively stating that sunscreen protects individuals with darker skin tones from developing skin cancer. This is due, in part, to the historical exclusion of such demographics in studies and the resulting lack of sufficient research conducted on these skin tones. While we may not have concrete evidence that conclusively links sun exposure to skin cancer in individuals with darker skin, the understanding of how the sun damages our skin leads us to this very conclusion. While we may lack long-term studies providing an unequivocal correlation, we do observe a specific DNA mutation, termed UV signature mutation, across a wide variety of skin tones.

Exposure to the sun elicits a conformational change in our DNA, resulting in a specific mutation known as a thymine dimer. If left unrepaired, these dimers could potentially lead to skin cancer. Thus, the presence of thymine dimers is indicative of sun damage, which has been observed across all skin tones. Even though individuals with lighter skin may show a higher instance of thymine dimer development, those with darker skin tones are not immune to this mutation. The occurrence of these mutations, regardless of skin tone, could potentially lead to skin cancer, irrespective of the limited data showing such a correlation in large populations.

UVA and Its Impact

Shifting focus from skin cancer to photoaging, it is well established that sun exposure leads to the degradation of collagen and elastin, which are vital components for maintaining skin structure. More specifically, UVA rays, which have a longer wavelength and penetrate deeper into the skin, are particularly damaging to collagen and elastin fibres, thereby contributing to wrinkle formation. Therefore, it's essential to ensure that your sunscreen is broad spectrum, providing protection against UVA rays.

Additionally, the sun can cause hyperpigmentation, particularly in individuals with darker skin tones. Exposure to the sun or even inflammation can trigger an overproduction of pigment by melanocytes, often leading to resulting hyperpigmentation and melasma. The struggle to deal with this is quite frustrating and is the most prominent indicator of photo aging among individuals with darker skin.

When it comes to sunscreen selection, I would recommend Elta MD's UV Active for sun protection. This product contains zinc and titanium, the physical blockers that shield the skin from UVA and UVB rays. However, if you're more inclined towards cosmetic elegance and desire a radiant glow from your sunscreen, a tinted sunscreen with iron oxides would be an better choice.

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My personal favorite among tinted sunscreens is the UV Restore from Elta MD. This is a pure mineral sunscreen with zinc, and the tinted variant contains iron oxides. Note that iron oxides are not listed in the active ingredients section of your sunscreen, but in the inactive ingredients. Alongside titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, these iron oxides offer protection against visible light which is crucial for those prone to hyperpigmentation.

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Empowering You with the Right Sunscreen Knowledge

There are several misconceptions surrounding sun exposure and skin health. People need to understand that regardless of skin tone, sun exposure can cause UV signature mutations, increase the likelihood of skin cancer, cause photo-aging and wrinkles, and lead to hyperpigmentation in those with darker skin tones.

Myth number three: you don’t need to wear sunscreen if…

Often, we hear statements like, "you don't need to wear sunscreen indoors," "you don't need to wear sunscreen in the car," or "you don't need to wear sunscreen on a cloudy day." Regardless of the situation, the fact remains that your skin could benefit from daily sunscreen application. However, if your goal is solely to prevent skin cancers, wearing sunscreen indoors may not be as critical since windows block UVB light, the primary cancer-causing ultraviolet ray.

Emphasizing the significance of UVA light, we mentioned earlier that its long wavelength penetrates window glass and facilitates aging by damaging collagen. This is evident in truck drivers, who often exhibit one side of their face appearing older due to consistent exposure to UVA light through the window. Though UVB light doesn't penetrate as deeply, UVA does contribute to aging, hyperpigmentation, and to a smaller degree, cancer.

Even if you're mostly homebound, it's crucial to maintain a daily sunscreen routine. This is even true for brief outdoor activities, such as picking up the mail or walking the dog. Consistency is key, and habitual sunscreen use can prevent sun damage and decrease the risk of skin cancer, even decades down the line. Despite lower UV indexes on overcast days, UV exposure is still a risk, indoors or out, except in windowless spaces.

Finding a sunscreen you enjoy using daily is important. Take, for example, Elta MD UV Clear, which we've touted numerous times because of its comprehensive protection and beneficial ingredients such as zinc and niacinamide. It's a daily sunscreen that not only offers sun protection but also moisturizes and, in the case of the tinted version, shields against visible light.

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To clarify this common misconception: Everyone should wear sunscreen daily, unless you literally live in a windowless box. However, it's not necessary to wear sunscreen while sleeping ;)

Myth number four - sunscreen use leads to vitamin D deficiency.

This concept might seem logical given that UVB, which is the primary cause of skin cancer, is also predominantly responsible for vitamin D precursors in our skin. Therefore, the assumption is that consistent use of sunscreen might indeed lower your vitamin D production. However, the process of vitamin D synthesis is complex. It begins in our skin due to sun exposure and continues elsewhere in our body. It's popular knowledge that sunlight is the most significant contributor to vitamin D levels in our bodies, accounting for about 80 percent, while diet makes up the remaining 20 percent. Therefore, the concern that sunscreen might block essential Vitamin D production is valid. But the implication is that you're applying sunscreen to your entire body, including under your clothes.

In reality, your clothing doesn't provide full sun protection - it's close to SPF 15, so you're still getting some UV exposure which assists vitamin D synthesis. Moreover, actual sunscreen application isn't perfect, so there will be UVB breakthrough, leading to vitamin D production. Research supports this argument. Studies indicate that the typical sunscreen application doesn't significantly affect your body's ability to produce vitamin D. Many people don't apply sunscreen as recommended, and they aren't covering their entire bodies, leading to vitamin D production from unprotected areas.

In fact, about 30% of people in the United States are already vitamin D deficient, so it's unlikely that wearing sunscreen in the typical way is likely going to be a major cause of vitamin D deficiency.

Vitamin D deficiency is not a justifiable concern for avoiding sunscreen. Even if you immerse yourself completely in sunscreen, the potential risk of skin cancer and photoaging outweighs any vitamin D deficiency issues. Therefore, the use of sunscreen should not cease if you have a vitamin D deficiency; it's safer to supplement vitamin D instead. Sunscreen is not solely for preventing skin cancer, as many mistakenly believe. It also aids in preventing hyperpigmentation and photoaging.

Even less exposed body parts such as feet, ears, and the back of the neck are susceptible to skin cancer. Therefore, it is essential to apply sunscreen meticulously to all these often-neglected areas. This year, my goal is to focus on applying sunscreen to the parts I usually overlook – the back of my hands and my ears.

Choosing the Right Sunscreen for Your Skin

Now, how do you locate a sunscreen that's effective? You certainly won't find it at beach shops or touristy seaside stores. The essential qualities of a good sunscreen include an SPF 30 protection level, broad-spectrum coverage for UVB and UVA, and water resistance, especially for those who are active or plan to swim. If you have hyperpigmentation, consider a tinted sunscreen with iron oxides.

The choice of sunscreen is highly personal and depends on individual needs, lifestyle, and personal preferences. It requires a lot of trial and error to find one that suits your skin, doesn't cause breakouts, feels comfortable, looks good, and, most importantly, that you're willing to wear daily. The first sunscreen I wore consistently was the Elta MD UV Clear tinted one, but recently I've been favoring the UV Restore as it gives my skin a glowy, hydrated, and dewy look. For active outdoor people like me, UV sport sunscreen is a great choice.

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