Top Asian Skincare Products
IN THIS ARTICLE
There's been a considerable interest in the ranking of top products from the Asian beauty subreddit. The entire top 20 list includes only Japanese and Korean products, despite Asia being home to numerous other countries with large populations such as India, Indonesia, and China. However, the focus of these countries isn't as much on exporting cosmetics overseas, unlike Japan and Korea. Consequently, subreddits like Asian Beauty, frequented mostly by Western redditors, predominantly feature Korean and Japanese products.
As always, my ranking process is inherently subjective but I always strive to provide a comprehensive explanation for my rankings. My ranking scale ranges from "Holy Grail," representing products I swear by, to "Solid Choice," which are the products I'd confidently recommend to friends, and all the way down to "Not for anyone," – suitable only for my enemies. There's also a category for products I've yet to form an opinion about due to insufficient personal use.
Now, predicting how your skin will react to a product based solely on the ingredients list is often unreliable and my years of skincare exploration have taught me this. So keep in mind, these rankings are my personal opinions, and the products that my skin loves may not necessarily work the same for you. For context, I'm based in southern Europe, and I have dry skin prone to dehydration, clogging, and dullness.
Let's now delve into the top products, starting with Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel Sunscreen. It's interesting to see that only two sunscreens made it to the top 20, given that they're one of the most popular categories in Asian skincare. This Japanese sunscreen with SPF 50 and PA++++ ranking, which is the highest rating in Japan, has gone through several transformations. Initially, it was a cult favorite product - lightweight, minimal white cast, and a mix of old and new chemical filters as well as physical ones. However, subsequent changes have added a noticeable white cast. The advent of the new formula housed in the old packaging, coupled with the language barrier (as most information on Japanese sunscreens is available only in Japanese), has caused a lot of confusion and queries among users. Despite the confusion, it still fares better than Western sunscreens. However, the ambiguity can still lead to frustrating purchasing experiences.
Round Lab Dokdo Cleanser: A High-Foaming, Low pH Solution
Moving on to the Round Lab Dokdo Cleanser. Round Lab, a popular Korean brand, excels with its birch juice sunscreen. This cleanser produces a dense, luxurious foam while maintaining a low pH. Although high-foaming cleansers are popular worldwide, they often use soap surfactants that require a high pH and cause skin issues like acne and dehydration over time. On the other hand, this cleanser uses isothionate and taurate surfactants that create a similar foaming texture without requiring high pH. It also contains a blend of multiple surfactants, forming mixed micelles that are less harsh on the skin. This cleanser also has a range of hydrating ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, allantoin, panthenol, and ceramides to counteract any potential skin stripping from cleansing.
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COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: The Asian Salicylic Acid Solution
Next we have the COSRX BHA blackhead power liquid. This product contains willow bark water, a natural salicin source, however, in my experience, I didn't observe significant changes after using this product, most likely because my skincare routine already includes Paula's Choice 2 percent BHA. Generally speaking, I recommend sourcing chemical exfoliants from Western brands due to the underwhelming offering in this category within the Asian skincare market. However, if you find Western products excessively harsh, this could be a suitable alternative.
Double Cleansing: Kosé Softimo Speedy Cleansing Oil Review
The next product, the Kosé Softimo Speedy Cleansing Oil, is an ideal first step for a double cleansing routine, a common practice in Asia. The routine begins with an oil-based cleanser, followed by a water-based cleanser to efficiently remove waterproof makeup and sunscreen. This cleansing oil is not only great value but also effective and fragrance-free, making it suitable for a broad range of people. The product effectively removes eyeliner without causing eye sting or blurriness, and it comes with a convenient pump. However, the oil can be tricky to apply without making a mess.
Kikuma Samune High Moist Lotion: Body Hydration with A Twist
The Kikuma Samune high moist lotion is the only body product on the list. This Asian lotion has a watery texture, unlike western lotions, which are typically thicker. It contains various beneficial ingredients targeting pigmentation and brightening the skin, including sake extract, which contains kojic acid. Despite the slightly off-putting apple cider-like smell, the lotion provides excellent hydration. However, the pump dispenser can be a bit problematic, given the lotion's watery consistency. Some users might prefer to transfer it into a spray bottle for easier application. While the lotion is fantastic for body hydration and potentially tackling dark spots, it might not be sufficient for those residing in dry climates. Also, some users reported breakouts after using this product, which could be a temporary purging period. But if it suits your skin, it could be a game-changer. It’s a solid choice unless you are sensitive to fragrances. I would categorize this as a solid choice. The presence of fragrance might pose some risks, but if your skin can handle it, this could potentially be a holy grail product.
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Low pH in Korean Skincare: A Look at COSRX Low pH Cleanser
Next is the COSRX Low pH Cleanser. The mention of low pH in Korean skincare has become quite the buzzword, as many cleansers have been guilty of having a high pH level. Despite its popularity and low pH of about 5.3, this product can still be quite drying, which some (including myself), have experienced. This could be attributed to the number of surfactants in the product, which may not create a gentle micelle effect.
The formula lacks potent humectants or moisturizers to compensate for the hydration washed away during cleansing. Though it contains some natural extracts, these are likely too water-soluble to linger on the skin post-cleansing. The product's popularity is probably because it's from COSRX and it's very budget friendly, as well as easy to acquire in the U.S. However, investing a little more in a less drying cleanser can make a huge difference, especially if your skin feels tight after cleansing. In terms of ranking, I'd place this in the 'meh' category, instead recommending the Round Lab cleanser. Other affordable alternatives include the Hamish Green Foam and Hada Labo Hyaluronic Foam.
Holy Grails and Formulation Changes
The next spot is occupied by the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence. This Japanese sunscreen, with its SPF 50 plus and PA rating and water resistance features, has won many hearts. Lightweight and application-friendly, it offers a refreshing contrast to heavier Western sunscreens. It performs excellently beneath makeup, and its newer filters provide superior UVA protection and a lightweight texture. Though it does contain alcohol, the presence of moisturizing ingredients tends to counteract any negative effects. It's also affordable and easily accessible, not to mention its mild floral scent. Despite its benefits, there's a bit of hesitation to place it in the Holy Grails due to its frequent formulation changes, approximately every two years. The latest 2024 version is out, which I haven’t yet tried, but the previous three or four versions have been quite impressive, so it should be safe to consider it a Holy Grail product.
Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner
The next spot belongs to Isntree green tea fresh toner, a toner with a green tea base and plant extracts. The antioxidant properties of these ingredients are undisputed. I conducted a trial run of this product for a week, which, admittedly, is not an extensive duration for a thorough evaluation. However, I have noticed more significant effects from other toners within the same timeframe. This one provides modest hydration, and some users report a reduction in oiliness over prolonged use. I must confess, green tea doesn't create much of an impact on my skin, and I am not an avid user of toners. My skincare routine tends to be minimalistic, and hydrating toners are typically the first item I eliminate. However, this product's affordable price range makes it worth considering. I'd love to hear your experiences if you've tried it out.
A Closer Look at Etude House Soonjung Two Times Barrier Intensive Cream
Next up is the Etude House Soonjung Two Times Barrier Intensive Cream. This product line incorporates panthenol and metacassoside from centella extract, mirroring the ingredient lineup of the cult favorite 'La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5'. It's an excellent solution for soothing irritated skin. However, reactions to this product are mixed. For me, this cream doesn't compare to Cicaplast when it comes to combating irritation caused by tretinoin. It gives the impression of sitting on top of the skin rather than hydrating effectively. The product also features an unconventional twisted lock dispenser design, which makes it difficult to dispense small amounts. Given the product's small tube size, I used up this cream rather quickly.
Dry-skinned individuals may find it less moisturizing than expected, but it works wonders for those with easily irritated skin. This line also offers other products such as the emulsion and the hydro barrier cream that might be better suited for deep hydration needs. They also provide a heavier balm product ideal for targeted spot treatment. Apologies to those who love it, but I'd categorize this as a 'meh' product for most users due to the existence of moisturizers with higher satisfaction rates. However, I urge you to try a sample if you think it might work for you. If you've found success with this product, do share your experiences, including your skin type, climate, and other moisturizers you like. This might help us identify the target audience for this product.
Introducing the I'm From Mugwort Essence
Next on the list is the 'I'm From Mugwort Essence'. I haven't used this long enough to form a solid opinion, but it contains 100 percent mugwort extract, also known as Artemisia Princeps. Mugwort is a rising star in Korean skincare, similar to centella, due to its effectiveness against redness and blemishes. Although slightly expensive, it has received positive feedback from numerous users.
The Consistent Performer: Hada Labo Premium Lotion
The next product on our list is the Hada Labo Premium Lotion - a classic, profoundly hydrating hyaluronic acid toner or essence. In Asian skincare, 'lotion' does not hold the same connotation as in Western skincare - a confusion brands are beginning to recognize. This essence contains multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, which I find provides more comprehensive hydration at different skin depths for more extended periods. Smaller molecules penetrate deeper into your skin, whereas larger ones remain on the skin surface, preventing water loss. This product has been a staple in Reddit skincare communities since 2013. It's priced affordably and comes in a generous bottle size. My only gripe is that it merely hydrates without offering additional benefits. However, it certainly makes for a solid choice.
The Multi-Benefit CosRx Propolis Toner
Up next is the CosRx Propolis toner. This toner not only hydrates but also offers additional benefits, thanks to propolis, popular in Korean skincare. Propolis, a bee-made adhesive used in hive construction, is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effects, and has been investigated for wound healing. Initially, I assumed it was meant solely for acne-prone skin, hence my initial hesitation to try it. However, it's been surprisingly pleasant, smoothing my skin without irritation. This toner is considerably lighter than other Propolis products like the Skinfood Enrich Essence. It might become a holy grail option, but for now, it is a solid choice.
The Laneige Cream Skin Refiner
The fifth product is the Laneige cream skin refiner, a product that essentially is a cream converted into a liquid. Highly recommended for irritated skin, it's one of my go-to products. It also doubles as a convenient mist for a quick spray over makeup. This emulsion, a blend of oil and water-based ingredients, is free from fragrance. The product is a solid choice, especially for those with dry skin, or those seeking a moisturizing spray for over makeup.
The Underrated PyunKang Yul Essence Toner
Up next we have the PyunKang Yul Essence Toner, a budget-friendly, plant-based toner. Although it doesn't provide deep hydration, it serves as a light hydrating toner for summer. It's a solid choice for those who enjoy applying multiple layers of toner. In spite of its premium appearance, it’s quite affordable.
Weighing In On the Illiyoon Ceramide Atto Concentrate Cream
Coming up next is the Illiyoon Ceramide Atto Concentrate Cream.The product in question contains what appear to be bursting beads, which give the illusion of concentrated active ingredients. While some products use these beads to maintain ingredient stability, my concern is how easily they blend. I wouldn't want visible remnants on my face. Fortunately, in this instance, they seem to blend reasonably well, and being a predominantly night-time product, it's not a significant issue.
This product underwent a reformulation at the end of 2021, which may be why it has become a popular topic of discussion. Opinions vary as to whether the old or new version is superior, or if there's even any noticeable difference. The beads do appear larger in the old version, which also seemed to be a bit chunkier and less dense. In terms of moisturizing properties, it's comparable to the Etude House Soon Jung barrier cream, but without the panthenol or madecassoside it doesn't target barrier repair as effectively.
Despite having glycerin high up on the ingredients list, I felt it fell short in providing sufficient hydration for my skin. It lacked the occlusive or humectant effect, requiring me to hydrate my skin underneath. Nonetheless, its formulation allows it to absorb nicely into the skin, making it a decent option for highly irritated skin. The product's absence of occlusiveness reminds me of the Soonjung cream. This could be due to the infrequent use of petrolatum and mineral oil in Korean skincare products. Despite being excellent occlusives, their rarity is often touted as an advantage in 'Green' grade EWG products. However, creating a long-lasting overnight moisturizer without them is a challenge. This isn't much of an issue considering the product's affordable price and reasonable quantity, making it a solid choice.
Why COSRX Snail Mucin Essence is a Must-Have
Next on the list is the COSRX Snail Mucin Essence. It's heavily mentioned for several reasons. Its exotic ingredient, Snail Slime, plays into the allure of mystical Asian skincare secrets, making it somewhat gimmicky. Despite this, it works wonders for many people, offering great hydration that lends to a glowy glass skin look. It also has an interesting stringy texture, looks good in videos, and it trended on TikTok. Plus, it's budget-friendly and widely available. Even though it might seem a bit gimmicky, it has become a staple in many skincare routines due to its outstanding hydration. Some people may experience closed comedones, but overall it's a great product. It's a holy grail that has withstood the test of time and proven effective for many skin types.
Melano CC Essence: A Vitamin C Product Worth Investing In
Lastly, the number one product on the list is the Melano CC Essence. I'm thrilled to see this at the top. This is a vitamin C product with ascorbic acid, and what really impresses me is its packaging.The container of this product is ingeniously designed to be airtight, effectively preventing oxidation.
This product, marketed in Japan as an anti-acne solution, boasts key ingredients like potassium glycerate, an anti-inflammatory derived from licorice, and isopropylmethylphenol, an antibacterial compound. Its unique packaging keeps it stable for prolonged periods, and it features a delivery system based on glycol which ensures deeper penetration of these ingredients.
Speaking of texture, it deviates from your typical vitamin C products. It has a thick, oil-like consistency, yet it is quickly absorbed into the skin. It is mildly scented and does a great job in mitigating the effects of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. What sets it apart is its longevity, making it an ideal choice for those who use vitamin C sparingly. It's earned a spot on my list of must-haves.
Korean vs Japanese Skincare
Of the products discussed, the majority are from Korea with a handful from Japan. The Japanese products are relatively older and have been popular for a while. On the other hand, the Korean products are gaining popularity rapidly, thanks to their affordable price points and the government's active support in promoting these brands overseas. This government sponsorship of beauty for export is astounding and is a unique example of soft diplomacy. This strategy, coupled with the abundance of information in English, makes Korean products more accessible to Western users.
I would very much welcome your thoughts on these products and my ranking. Remember, these are my personal opinions, and I am open to suggestions for different uses of these products that may change my views!
About the Author: Caolan
With over a decade of international experience, Caolan's passion lies in simplifying the complex. His innovative thinking and audience-first approach have made significant impacts across the creative industries. Now, as the founder of But More Importantly, he applies these talents to the world of cosmetics, aiming to unmask marketing hype and provide readers with the truth about beauty products. His mission: to help you make informed choices and discover what truly enhances your beauty routine.
