Azelaic Acid: A Skincare Powerhouse You Can't Ignore

Two bottles of azelaic acid skincare products

If you haven't yet heard about azelaic acid, it's time for a proper introduction to this versatile and effective skincare ingredient. In this article, we will explore the origin, benefits, science, and products that contain azelaic acid, worthy of a spot in your skincare routine.


What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. This dicarboxylic acid has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and exfoliating properties, making it particularly useful in treating various skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic Acid vs. Other Skincare Ingredients

Compared to other exfoliating acids such as salicylic, glycolic, or lactic acids, azelaic acid is better suited for sensitive skin as it is less irritating. Additionally, its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties help reduce redness and inflammation associated with acne.

The Science Behind Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid's effectiveness primarily stems from its ability to unclog pores, reducing the buildup of dead skin cells and preventing acne-causing bacteria from proliferating in the pores. It also inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. This property helps to fade hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone, and give your skin a brighter appearance.

Azelaic Acid for Sensitive Skin

One of the key benefits of azelaic acid is its suitability for sensitive skin. Its gentle exfoliating action, combined with anti-inflammatory properties, allows it to calm redness and irritation without causing excessive peeling.

Key Benefits of Azelaic Acid

Formulation and Concentration

Azelaic acid comes in various formulations like gels, creams, and serums. The right concentration typically ranges from 10% to 20%, depending on the product and the severity of the skin issue being treated. A word to the wise: save your azelaic acid products for nighttime use. Azelaic acid is normally a powder, suspended in a liquid. This means that when the product dries it can appear dusty or flaky and it has the tendency to peel. If you were to use it during the day under sunscreen or makeup you could be quite likely to experience uneven application or even look a bit like you are a snake shedding its skin. Eww.

Azelaic Acid Products

1. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

This lightweight cream-gel formula contains 10% azelaic acid, along with salicylic acid and licorice root extract. The combination of these ingredients helps to reduce acne, fading red marks, and brightening the skin.

2. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

The Ordinary's Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is a high-strength formula in a creamy, silicone-based texture that provides excellent skin tolerance while delivering visible results in reducing acne and evening out skin tone.

3. Dr. Sam Bunting Flawless Brightly Serum

Dr. Bunting's Flawless Brightly Serum combines azelaic acid with niacinamide and bakuchiol for a potent yet gentle formula designed to target hyperpigmentation, blemishes, and wrinkles.


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